What people want.

While creating the dessert section of our menu, my two principles were to try to be true to the ingredients of the Mediterranean region, and to be different to what everyone else is doing (Thanks to the restaurant Chains, stuff like Hot Apple Pie and Brownie, both a la mode is everyewhere). It was a matter of testing, but we finally settled on the following choices:

Our version of Manchego and Membrillo: Olive Oil and Quince Paste Cake, Young Manchego, Artisanal Quince Paste.

Goat Cheese Flan, Orange Sauce, Dates, Pistacchio Crumble

Yoghurt Panna Cotta, Honey Stewed Peaches

Lavender Chocolate Mousse, Apple Granité, Apple Rollup

Citrus Espuma, Citrus Caramel, Pistacchio Joconde, Chamomille Gel

Pear Tarte Tatin, Port Wine Sorbet.

For our lunch menu, we also added a Black Pepper Ice Cream, Strawberry ALmond Chutney and Crumble.

After a mere four months of operation, changes are due. There will be a new dessert and we're getting our Ice Creams outsourced and getting rid of the Port Sorbet (Mainly because of production issues). Our new dessert has been conceived by listening to what people want. Unfortunately, people want what every other place in town is offering: Brownie A la Mode.

Since this is business, after all, we're making them the darned thing. But not quite. The brownie part is being replaced with a Almond and Cocoa Financier. We're buying a wonderful Burnt Caramel Ice Cream to go with it, and finishing the dessert with some Candied Orange Peel.

It will be available sometime this week.

Microwave Crisping

Foodplayer Linda's last post on crispy asparagus sparked an interest into making crispy vegetables with a different technique than that used in pastry (simple syrup + oven). Two things stand out for me in her experiment, apart from the obvious, exciting result: first, finding a better way to use our microwave oven, and second, the fact that replicating the technique seems doable within almost any kitchen.

After asking her about other experiments with other vegetables, she let me know that she has gotten good results out of mushrooms and she's got a list of others to try. We have a dish at the restaurant that, while it sells like crazy, I've always felt that it needs something to give it a bit more of a visual impact. So the thought of crisping zucchini came to mind.

I took some zucchini bits left over from some prep and since it was too short to slice lengthwise, sliced it into rounds. Prepped my salted water and blanched them. I laid the zucchini rounds on paper towels and transfered to parchment. In comes snag #1. The dehydration process. Our oven's lowest temp setting is 220°F. So instead of the 30 minutes at 100°F they were there for 15 minutes. Snag #2 came from a huge human error. I was pulled into a meeting and couldn't keep watch over my experiment. When I came out of the meeting I found my rounds perhaps a bit too dry or they were too thinly sliced as many were sticking to the parchment or too fragile to handle.

Still I managed to get some into the microwave. Before I had my zucchini ready, I microwaved some of our soft apple glass with pretty decent results. Testing on the glass allowed me to notice that perhaps tossing stuff into the microwave at full power wasn't too wise. Plinio advised to reduce power. Which led to a bunch of trial and error tests to get the right power and time. It also reminded me of David Arnold's microwave power woes and to think about how the oven being non-linear could affect the result.

Unfortunately, I didn't feel like finishing pastry's mise en place with my testing and I didn't quite like my zucchini slices. So results obtained so far are mixed. Initially it feels like a wafer. It's paper thin and somewhat crispy. Once inside the mouth it loses the texture and becomes chewy. Taste, however, is very good. Although I'm thinking of seasoning them slightly. Perhaps with curry...

Adventures w/Activa (Not too proud)

I had been saving my Activa samples for... I don't know exactly what. I had been toying with the idea of rolling up some marinated arrachera (skirt), a meat that's practically a staple in barbecues around here. And cooking it like a roast. 

However, I haven't had much time to do much fun, now that I have a space to play, I don't dedicate my time or budget to things that aren't part of the restaurant operation. So the Activa sat in my freezer. 

Just recently a friend of mine called me to ask for some of it. So the Activa came out of retirement. I let him have some of the GS as well as the regular GM. I still have to check with him how his meals worked out. I also noticed that I had been given two samples of both, so I was left with some spares without really knowing what to do with them. 

The opportunity presented itself in a shameful fashion. A batch of braised pork shank was cooked a bit too long and the meat was falling off the bone. Usually this is a good sign, but this one was impossible to handle. Out came the Activa. 

I made a RM Slurry, brushed it on the meat and reassembled the shanks in the best way possible. Wrapped it tightly in film and left them in the refrigerator so set. 

Today we got the first order for a shank. It worked perfectly. Not the proudest example of how to use the Activa, but our first test with it. 

Milk and Sugar

I've always wanted to take the flavors of childhood and tweak them into something more apt to be served in a restaurant. I've never really gotten around to doing it, however. I have reinterpreted things like Reese's cups or a cake that was very popular about ten years ago (Chocolate cake with a flan layer on top) with relative success as far as the clients' enjoyment of the desserts. 

Growing up in urban areas of northern Mexico makes for pretty lousy food memories, as far as traditional eats are concerned. Having parents that were born elsewhere doesn't help either as far as my exposure to what the local sweets are. However, I did get to know a few of the sweets of the region. Like Jamoncillos, Cocadas and the most famous "sweet" of the region: Pan de Pulque. 

Jamoncillos and Cocadas share two ingredients that could be considered staples in pretty much every region of Mexico: Milk and Sugar. Wherever you go in Mexico you're bound to find sweets based on custards, curdled milk or more commonly caramelized milk. On a more modern note, condensed milk has also made a place for itself in the sweet pantry of our kitchens. 

In the 2003 movie "Politiki Kouzina" (A touch of Spice), the main character reflects on milk and sugar. He mentions having seen many seniors walking around with boxes of sweets based on these ingredients, which are, ironically, the first flavors we taste. 

One very popular sweet combination, and one that many Mexicans have eaten regardless of their region is the Galletas Marías and Cajeta. The former being a very popular biscuit, the latter, our version of Dulce de Leche (made from goat's milk). 

Taking that idea and this one from Linda, I wonder how people would react to a new, elegant version of the childhood staple. How about Galletas Marías and Lemon?? 

Menu Changes

Due to event logistics, the menu has changed for tonight. It is now as follows:

Bohemia Clásica

Tuna Tartare "montado", citrus dressing, soy caramel.

Bohemia Obscura

Seared Beef Filet "Montado" Red Onion Compote.

MariaTinto Celeste Blanco Sauvignon Blanc

Olive Oil confit Salmon, Meyer Lemon, Grilled Zucchini, Pine Nut

Adobe Guadalupe Gabriel

Duck Confit, Arúgula, Red Onion, Berry Vinaigrette.

Adobe Guadalupe Kerubiel

Beef Filet Tartare, Pimentón de la Vera, Roast Garlic, Chocolate.

Beer and Wine Tasting at Buké

Tru Miller, from Adobe Guadalupe, Humberto Falcón and Cervecería Cuauhtémoc are coming to Buké. We're having a 30 pax beer and wine tasting. 

This is what I've come up with so far: 

Bohemia Clásica: 

Tuna Tartar "Montadito", Citrus-Honey dressing, Soy Caramel. 

Bohemia Obscura: 

Beef Filet "Montadito", Red Onion Compote,

CelesteBlanco Sauvignon Blanc: 

Seared Salmon, Grilled Zucchini, Citrus, Pine nut. (I had come up with a bolder match, but perhaps I'd need a longer menu).

Adobe Guadalupe Gabriel:

Pork Loin, Coffe-Cocoa soil, Berry Chutney

Adobe Guadalupe Kerubiel:

Beef Filet, Chocolate-Wine Sauce. Beet Confit.

It's in the works so it might end up changing.

Swine Flu Panic

Bread Aisle
Originally uploaded by cookiejesus

The city's deserted. Movie theaters are closed. Restaurants are empty (Rumor has it we're going to be closed. . Concerts and plays are cancelling and rescheduling. Schools are closed for a week and a half. People are all walking around with their mouths covered and some even are wearing gloves.

But what really got me was going to the supermarket. People are really stocking up on some basics. Milk, toilet paper, water and bread aisles are ravaged,. Lines are long as hell, but orderly, still.

Me, I picked up a six pack for me and a fashion magazine for my wife (she works in a school, still no date for going back to work)...